2015, falling on the back of 2014 and my grand Peru adventure, has proved a tiring year. Too much time spent at my desk and nowhere near enough doing all the things that nourish us and re-connect us to the earth and the environments that sustain us. Now the year is closing and yet more change is on the horizon: I have finished my Masters studies, graduating with distinction, and am now in search of new career opportunities and a place to turn into a proper home (at least for a while).

I’m looking forward to having the time and the energy to write again, and to tell all the stories that are brewing in my head. Before all that though I’m taking a proper break – a whole month – and heading off to New Zealand to explore some place I’ve never been and to spend time with some of my favourite people. When I get back, everything goes into upheaval again, but in the interim there will be more sunrises and sunsets, more mountain views and spectacular coasts, more getting rained on but smiling anyway as I follow new trails wherever they go…

I wish you all the best for the festive season and into 2016. Rest, be kind to each other, and to this little planet we call home. Thank you for reading through this quiet and reflective year, and I hope you enjoy these photos from a recent too-short rip back to Tasmania, the island that once was home. I look forward to sharing my voice again soon.


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…but I’m still climbing them none the less. Research essays, policy briefs, reflective journals; environmental policy, law, development. Onwards and upwards, with the end now almost in sight.

In seven weeks’ time my studies will be complete. All going well I will hold a Master of Environment in policy, governance and development and leave my essay writing days behind. Perhaps then I shall re-discover the joys of writing for me, and this little space will come alive with words again.


First though, first there will be some physical mountains to climb. There will be time in the forest with the gnarled myrtle beeches. There will be high alpine tarns and mountaintop dawns. The simplicity of life in a backpack and no schedule to keep beyond that of the skies. No screen other than my trusty camera’s display as I record precious memories for posterity.

Six more assessment items. Fourty two days.


Photos from the winter university holidays, when I made sure to find a few mountains to climb.


University is keeping me very busy. Busy sitting at my desk, staring at the screen and failing to write the essays that are all due too soon. Busy reading paper after paper and trying to turn complex and conflicting information into coherent arguments and viable solutions, where perhaps they don’t exist. Busy scribbling down notes in lectures so I remember all the good stuff once this year is a receding memory and I’m back in the land of the worker, looking for ways to implement all I’m learning.

University is feeding my mind. I’m cramming in so much knowledge and so many new ideas that some days it feels my brain is full and I’m so damn tired of all this constant thinking and mental rewiring. How do I connect economic theory to the problems in sustainable development, bearing in mind the relationships of knowledge and power embedded in the discourse? Sociology, political science, psychology, economics and governance theory lie awkwardly together as I figure out how to map them all into ecology and the giant puzzle of how to help humanity save itself from environmental destruction.

Some days it all seems so very grim.

So important then to feed the soul as well. To make time to head out into the wild places and walk until the wind clears my head and the trail works the stiffness out of my spine. To hold onto a sense of perspective and remember why I’m doing all this. Most of all though, to remember who I am; to feel alive and whole and joyful.

High on the sea cliffs, face to the wind, so alive and smiling.



Today is Earth Day.

I’ve spent it as I’ve spent most of the last eight weeks: inside, buried under required readings, assignment work, lectures and tutorials. While post-graduate study is challenging and intellectually rewarding, studying how to better care the environment feels like it is temporarily disconnecting me from much of it. My current life is very urban. I live and study in the inner city, surrounded by concrete, glass and steel. There’s precious little greenery and no wildness about Melbourne, but this, too, is the environment. This too is Earth.

When we think about environmentalism, about sustainability, about nature, we hold images in our mind like the photo above: a vast swathe of unspoilt Amazon rainforest. Places that take our breath away and make us want to protect them. Animals that inspire a sense of awe and wonder. This, we think, is worth protecting.

What about the every day places, the spaces we inhabit in our daily lives? This is our environment on the most intimate level: the space we interact with daily; the air we breathe, the ground we tread on, the food we eat. We are part of nature and these are the environments we create for ourselves. How then to value our cities and towns, these modified spaces? How to value properly the spiders, whose unappreciated efforts keep insect numbers down. How to value trees transplanted from elsewhere that never-the-less produce oxygen and filter pollution, anchoring themselves into paved-over soils and somehow staying alive? What about the once-wild streams now concreted and hidden beneath us? What about the pigeons and the sparrows that somehow manage to thrive here? This too is nature.

Today is Earth Day: a reminder to care for this planet and the forms of life that depend on her. A reminder that this planet is our environment, that we are part of nature: it shapes us as much as we shape it. The environment is not just the mystique of the Amazon or the brilliance of the Great Barrier Reef, it is the here and now of you and I, and how well we understand that, how we choose to value that, matters.

Today and every day in this still-unfamiliar city I am grateful: for the clean air I breathe, for the urban creeks I cycle by, for the exotic street trees in their autumnal glory, for the spiders and the sparrows, for the sky and wind and rain. This is my environment; something to care for, to protect and improve. After all, it’s keeping me alive.

Rutledge Lane


Too many weeks ago, a little before Christmas, I left Lima; packing my life down to a luggage limit again and saying goodbye to what had, over 14 months, become very much my world. Projects were finished in too much haste, too many sad farewells were said, and one lonely 3 a.m. I walked into Lima airport one more time and flew back to the echoes of the life I left behind.

A lot changed in Australia during the year I was away, most of it to do with politics. Policy changes and funding cuts hit many industries hard, including my little corner of environmental management and renewable energy, and several months ago now I found myself without a job to come back to. Opportunities are born of adversity, however, and the struggles in my sector, combined with my experiences abroad, inspired me to take another big leap into something new. Thus I find myself here, on a university campus in the controlled chaos the first day of classes, becoming a student again.

I’m back in my home country, but in a new city, with a challenging new adventure to live. Read More

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The COP20 kicks off here in Lima tomorrow, which is kind of a big deal.

What is the COP20?
COP stands for “Coalition of the Parties”, which is United Nations-speak for meetings of the countries participating in the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change, and this particular meeting is called the COP20 as it is the 20th such meeting of the Parties.

Previous COPs worth mentioning include:

  • 1995: COP 1, Berlin, Germany – the Berlin Mandate to act against climate change, which shows how long we’ve been talking about this stuff for.
  • 1997: COP 3, Kyoto, Japan – the signing of the 1st COP agreement, the Kyoto Protocol on Climate Change
  • 2001: COP 6, Bonn, Germany – the USA under George W Bush rejects the Kyoto Protocol
  • 2009: COP 15, Copenhagen, Denmark – International negotiations for a new post-Kyoto agreement fail in spectacular fashion. Pretty much every meeting since has been about picking up the pieces.

How big a deal is all this?
For the next 2 weeks the representatives of all the member parties – all 196 of them – will be talking here in Lima. These representatives of the majority of the world’s governments aim to negotiate new global agreements on greenhouse gas emission reduction and climate change mitigation. The measures developed during these 2 weeks will be further tweaked then formally signed into being next year at the COP21 in Paris.

So why do these agreements matter?
The best understanding of the science indicates that an average global temperature increase of 2oC (3.6oF) is now the MINIMUM increase guaranteed to happen this century, and that even the best agreements at the COP can’t stop that from happening. The climate is already changing now, and the social and environmental impacts of that 2+oC change are already appearing. Here in Peru glaciers are disappearing, agricultural productivity is declining and water shortages are emerging, and it’s only going to get worse. We know the world is shifting, and that these changes are going to be economically, socially and ecologically significant.

Left un-checked, climate change, will irreversibly change the natural resources (soil, water, forest, oceans, air) we depend upon, with permanent effect on where we live, what and how much we eat, and just how many human beings can survive on our planet. Competition for decreasing natural resources will cause wars. There will be food shortages not just in poor countries, but rich countries too. Increased frequency and severity of climate-linked natural disasters, like hurricanes, droughts, heat waves, cold-snaps, floods and fires, will affect all of us. Read More


Protecting landscapes isn’t a novel idea. An appreciation for spectacular views and aesthetically special places drove the creation of the first national parks in Australia and many other parts of the world, long before we starting talking about things like biodiversity values and ecosystem services. In Australia we’ve protected these places by preventing their habitation or exploitation for anything more than tourism, but you can’t do that in a place like Peru where people have been part of the landscape for thousands of years, where the areas you want to protect not only hold great beauty, but also well-established communities, connected by roads and wires to the wider world and shaped by millennia of agriculture.

Nor Yauyos Cochas is a beautiful place; there is no arguing that. The territory of the Yauyino people, this Andean oasis boasts glacier-capped peaks and mirrored alpine lagoons revered as apus – natural gods – by the Andean people, as well as the spectacular turquoise waters of the upper Cañete river. The steep mountainsides are incised by ancient agricultural terraces and remnants of the old Inca road network – the Qapac Ñan – still connect the walking routes between villages, revealing the age and extent of human habitation in Peru’s central-western mountains. In the modern villages of Huancaya, Vilca, Tanta and Miraflores the modern world has made little intrusion. The houses are largely still hand-built adobe and special stone channels bring water from the river through the streets, where the Quechua-speaking locals collect it in kettles to boil for use. Read More


Twelve months ago this week I unpacked my bags in a simple hotel room and stepped out to meet Lima, the city that would be my home for the next year-and-a-bit.

Lima… almost 10 million people pressed up against the desert coast. The kind of place where no-one is truly from, if you go back far enough. The pre-Colombian cultures that built their mud and stone temples here fished and worshipped in the summers when the sun shines brightly and the rains pour down in the Andes. In the endless grey days of winter they returned to the hills and the fields of the river valleys. Permanent settlement came with the Spaniards who claimed this swampy coast for their capital in the conquest of the region.

So began the difficult history of this city, a place of clashing cultures and competing motivations. The Spaniards brought with them African slaves, then later Chinese coolies to work the silver mines and guano deposits. Japanese migrants came to settle at the end of the Second World War. Domestic terrorism in the Shining Path years drove the mass migration of Andean peoples to the city outskirts. Now and the promise of work and a better future for their children draws people from the far coast, the high Andes and the steaming Amazon to Lima.  Read More

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It’s a question I asked myself on my first day of work here in Lima. On Day 1 I arrived at the office and was handed an environmental impact assessment (EIA) for an irrigation project and asked to provide my opinion on the quality and the shortcomings of the EIA and the project. What on earth is a “bofedal”? Read More


I should be doing a final check for references on the blog post I’ve had sitting as a draft for the last fortnight: an article on one of the ecosystems here in Peru that’s really caught my aquatic-scientist attention. Instead, I’m going to tell you a story that I think is far more important. The story of Andres.  Read More


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